A journey around the finest Bordeaux estates
Why is Bordeaux wine so special?
From the beginner wine enthusiast to the most knowledgeable connoisseur, fine Bordeaux wines are known and loved throughout the world. Located near the Atlantic Coast in the southwest of France, Bordeaux is the largest fine wine-producing region in the world. Situated halfway between the Equator and the North Pole, Bordeaux is blessed with temperate winters and long, warm summers that are ideal for growing grapes. One of the oldest and largest wine regions in the world, Bordeaux spans around 118,000 hectares of vines and an average annual production of 5 million hl. The fine Bordeaux region is home to 60 appellations, some of which are among the most prestigious and renowned in the world of wine.
The Bordeaux region also boasts one of the most unique wine commerce systems in the world. The "Place de Bordeaux" is a network of nearly 7,000 wine producers, 300 wine merchants and around 100 wine brokers (or “courtiers,” a profession unique to Bordeaux), all fundamental players in the marketing and sale of Bordeaux wines.
Margaux, Pauillac, Pessac-Leognan, Saint-Emilion, Pomerol, Sauternes… Long is the list of world-famous AOC appellations, each one known for its unique terroir home to world-famous producers like Chateau Mouton Rothschild and Chateau Pontet-Canet. The great reputation of Bordeaux wines stems mostly from the quality of its red wines. These Bordeaux red wines are made with the famous Bordeaux blend, made up of 5 grape varieties: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Petit Verdot. This Bordeaux blend is quite popular internationally and recreated in many other wine regions in the world. But the Bordeaux region also produces some excellent white wines, both dry wines, sweet wines and sparkling wines, from Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon. The best-known Bordeaux white wines are produced mostly in the Entre-deux-Mers and Graves areas. Meanwhile, Sauternes and Barzac are famous for their golden-colored sweet wines.
This region is home to a dazzling mosaic of micro-terroirs, producing a wide range of styles. From the smooth and elegant Merlot-dominant wines of Saint-Emilion to the powerful and structured Cabernet-heavy stunners of Pauillac, the sweet golden nectars of Sauternes and the bright and fresh dry whites of Entre-deux-Mers, the treasured landscape of Bordeaux unlocks a world of fine wines, bottles to please even the choosiest of palates.
The age-old history of the Bordeaux wine region
From Roman times to today
The history of these wines dates back almost 2,000 years to the Roman occupation of Gaul. By the 10th century, Bordeaux wines had become a popular domestic staple in France. In the 12th century, following the marriage of Henry Plantagenet and Alienor d’Aquitaine, the French region of Aquitaine (containing Bordeaux) became English territory, and the exportation of these wines (then called “claret” by the English) to England grew immensely. These wines eventually came to grace the royal tables of the succession of English kings that followed and the Bordeaux vine-growing region expanded in size to accommodate the new foreign demand. The link between these wines and English aristocracy was established, a link that has survived and evolved through the centuries. In 1453, France reclaimed the province of Aquitaine and took back control of wine production in the area. In the beginning, the Graves was the main wine-growing region of Bordeaux and the Medoc, now producing some of the most prestigious wines in the world, was barren swampland. It was indeed Dutch traders in the 17th century who first had the idea of draining the Medocain marshland and planting vines in this area. By the early 18th century, wine production in Bordeaux was so widespread, that the region was divided into specific areas to distinguish their wines from one another. It was around this time that the first great chateaux of Bordeaux came to life, through the involvement of pioneers like Nicolas-Alexandre, Marquis de Segur, who at one point owned Chateau Latour, Chateau Lafite-Rothschild, Chateau Mouton, Chateau Calon Segur, Chateau d’Armailhac and Chateau Pontet-Canet. Nicknamed “the prince of vines” by Louis XV, the Marquis is largely credited for establishing the signature styles of what are to this day Bordeaux’s most prestigious wine estates. Roughly at the same time, a merchant by the name of Pierre de Rauzan began purchasing land in the Medoc and founding the estate that would one day become Pichon Longueville, ancestor to the Chateau Pichon Comtesse and Chateau Pichon-Baron we now know.
The illustrious 1855 Bordeaux Classification
One of the most important dates in the history of Bordeaux is 1855 when in preparation for the Paris Exhibition, Emperor Napoleon III requested an official classification of the best of the region's wines. The union of brokers developed a classification system for these wines based on quality and market prices of the time. In the 1855 Classification of Medoc and Graves, 60 top Bordeaux red wines were ranked from first to fifth growths (crus) with four classified first growths chosen in total: Chateau Lafite, Chateau Latour, Chateau Margaux and Chateau Haut-Brion. Only one great change has ever been made to this selection – the promotion of Chateau Mouton Rothschild from second growth to first growth status in 1973.
The white wines chosen were limited to 26 dessert wines from Sauternes and Barsac and classified only into two categories: first growth and second growth. Chateau d’Yquem famously ranked so highly among the first growth group that it was given its own category of Premier Cru Superieur (Superior First Growth), a category it still occupies alone. The illustrious first half of the 19th century in Bordeaux was followed by decades of great hardship, with the arrival of the phylloxera epidemic, which spread rapidly through the region between 1875 and 1892, wiping out almost all of Bordeaux’s prized vineyards. In order to recover the vines, they had to be grafted onto pest-resistant American rootstock. Some grape varieties were easier to graft than others, and these grape varieties (Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc and Muscadelle) would eventually come to represent the region. The phylloxera epidemic was followed by two World Wars and a Great Depression, which took a great toll on the wine industry. Nevertheless, several regulations were set in order to protect winemakers.
Guaranteeing authenticity and safeguarding the reputation of Bordeaux wines
In 1935, the Institut National de l’Origine et de la Qualité (INAO) was created to work together with top wine producers to define the official boundaries of certain appellations as well as the rules to meet in order for wines to qualify for them. This measure was taken to prevent wine-growing regions elsewhere in France from capitalizing on Bordeaux’s international success by erroneously labeling their own wines as being from Bordeaux. In 1981, inheritance taxes were significantly increased in France, leading several old Bordeaux families to sell their chateaux to insurance companies, banks and other national and international corporate players. While this trend did change the landscape of the region's wine industry significantly, it allowed for an influx of new investments into estates that had come to be neglected during the difficult first half of the 20th century. Such investments, coupled with ever-evolving winemaking technology, helped usher in a brand new chapter in the history of these wines. It was around the same time that the first independent wine critics surfaced, gradually becoming more and more influential during the 1970s and 1980s. American wine critic Robert Parker famously declared Bordeaux 1982 to be the best vintage of the past few decades, leading to a great demand for these wines in the United States. International critics also helped shift the focus onto fruit quality, which led Bordeaux chateaux to become more selective during harvest. This, in turn, led many estates to create Second Labels so as not to waste grapes that were deemed good quality but not good enough to go into their Grand Vin (First Wine).
Bordeaux Wine Futures, long-awaited releases
Around the end of the 1970s the en primeur (also called wine futures) system also began to gain serious ground. Previously set in place by dominant merchants in order to set their own price in return for up-front cash paid to the chateaux before bottling, the system has since then evolved. This system allowed wine merchants to secure large stocks and sell them to customers while the wines were still in the barrel, to be delivered roughly two years later, once bottled. With the up-front profit, the estates could invest into new winemaking facilities and improve vineyard management. To this day, the closed circle of merchants who enjoy the exclusive privilege of buying and selling these wines (collectively called the “Place de Bordeaux”) rely on this system to sell Bordeaux’s Grand Cru classified wines. Today, Bordeaux continues to evolve, as one of the leading wine regions of the world. Technological advances have led to great improvements in wine quality as well as lessening negative environmental impact. More and more estates are now converting to organic viticulture, with a select few even taking the next step into biodynamic wine production.
The appellations and terroirs
The official viticultural region of Bordeaux today extends 80 miles inland from the Atlantic Coast and is home to over 10,000 wine producers with an average production of around 600 million liters per year. This output includes inexpensive table wines (classified under the region’s generic “Bordeaux” appellation) as well as some of the world’s most expensive references (the Grands Crus or Classified Growths).
The historical success of the region's winemaking can largely be attributed to the region’s geology and geography. Bordeaux is set on a foundation of limestone and clay soils, with a significant mineral content to nourish the vines. The Gironde estuary, along with its tributaries (the Garonne River and Dordogne River) offer natural irrigation. The system of rivers feeding into the Gironde estuary also helped put these wines on the map historically, by providing a bustling port with easy access to the ocean and, thus, foreign markets. At a latitude of 45°N, the average summer daytime temperature of Bordeaux rarely rises above 95 °F, while winter temperatures tend to be mild with rare occurrences of frost. The Garonne and Dordogne Rivers divide the Bordeaux region into its sub-regions, each of which is home to several appellations. Altogether, there are 57 appellations in Bordeaux, which is also the greatest producer of appellation wines in France.
Left Bank and Right Bank Bordeaux wines
More particularly, Bordeaux wines are divided between the wines of the Right Bank and those of the Left Bank – two very different styles coming from the vast differences in soil and terroir.
The Right Bank of Bordeaux
The Right Bank (meaning the right bank of the Gironde and the Dordogne, to the north of the Bordeaux region) includes regions such as Bourgeais, Blayais and Castillon. This is where you will also find the famous Saint-Emilion, Pomerol and Fronsac appellations. The wines of the Right Bank come from soils predominantly composed of clay-limestone, except Pomerol, whose vines are planted in soils of gravel, clay and sandy soil. Due to the nature of the soil, Merlot is the flagship grape variety of the Right Bank, contributing its varietal qualities to the wines from here. Right Bank Bordeaux wines thus sport a great body and high alcohol, as well as a nose marked by intense black fruit, blackberry, plum and cherry aromas. Here the terroir is characterized by red clay soils, in which the Merlot grape thrives. The Right Bank is home to appellations that include Blaye, Cotes de Bourg, Fronsac, Canon-Fronsac and the two most prestigious – Pomerol and Saint-Emilion. In Saint-Emilion, soil types range from clay to gravel and limestone. Saint-Emilion has its own classification system, originating from 1955, which unlike the 1855 classification is revised regularly. Premier Grand Crus of Saint-Emilion, like Chateau Ausone and Chateau Cheval Blanc, are widely considered equal in quality to the First Growths of the Left Bank. The Pomerol appellation is home to several tiny estates and is characterized by very dense blue clay soils that make for marvelous Merlot. Although lacking a classification system, Pomerol is the birthplace of several world-renown wines, including the legendary Petrus. With room for exceptions, of course, Right Bank versions tend to contain a blend of Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon (in order of importance). However, several Pomerol estates, for example, produce single-varietal Merlot wines. Because of the high relative percentage of Merlot in these wines, Right Bank Bordeaux tend to be slightly smoother, softer and less tannic than their Left Bank counterparts, though still quite bold and powerful in flavor. Signature aromas include dark fruit, chocolate, licorice, tobacco, as well as fresh herbs, mushrooms and spices with age.
The Left Bank of Bordeaux
The Left Bank includes the Medoc and Graves regions. Here, Cabernet Sauvignon is the star grape variety, flourishing in the Left Bank’s gravel soils, which capture the warmth of the sunshine during the day and transmit it to the vines during the night. The wines of the Left Bank are known for their magnificent personality, and their typical aromatic profile characterized by stewed black fruits. Left Bank Bordeaux wines also offer a remarkable tannic structure, which softens wonderfully over time. These legendary wines are designed to age.
Situated on the left bank of the Garonne River, to the west and south of the Bordeaux region, is Bordeaux’s “Left Bank,” further divided into the Graves (upstream of Bordeaux city) and the Medoc (downstream of Bordeaux city, on a peninsula between the Atlantic Ocean and Gironde Estuary). Within the Medoc, the Haut-Medoc sub-region is home to the four very famous Left Bank appellations of Pauillac (producing dense, firm wines with remarkable aging potential), Margaux, Saint-Julien and Saint-Estephe, as well as the lesser-known Listrac and Moulis. Here, some of the most prestigious estates of Bordeaux can be found, including four out of five of Bordeaux’s Classified First Growths. While the proximity of the Atlantic Ocean results in high rainfall, the gravel soils characterizing the Medoc provide excellent drainage and reflect the light, in order to allow the red grapes to ripen slowly. This is the perfect environment for Cabernet Sauvignon, which dominates in this area. The Left Bank Bordeaux Blend tends to be comprised, in order of importance, of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Petit Verdot. These wines tend to be bold and tannic, with remarkable aging potential, although styles vary from one appellation to another. Signature aromas include dark fruit, cigar box, cedar, truffles, leather and spices with age.
The Graves, named after its signature gravel soils, is known to produce red blends similar to those of Medoc but is also the origin of some fantastic white wines made of Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon. The Pessac-Leognan appellation, situated in the northern Graves, is home to some of the area’s most prestigious chateaux, including Classified First Growth Chateau Haut-Brion. The appellations of Cerons, Sauternes and Barsac, situated in the southern half of the Graves, are specialized in the production of sweet dessert wines from botrytized grapes infected with “noble rot” (typically a blend of Semillon, Sauvignon with small amounts of Muscadelle and Sauvignon Gris). The grapes are harvested in several passes and the wines are aged in oak barriques between 18 and 36 months to produce wines with an intense golden color, which gradually turns amber with age. These wines are characterized by luscious aromas of stone fruit, white flower blossoms and honeysuckle. Finally the Entre-deux-Mers (meaning “Between Two Seas”) region is situated between the Garonne and Dordogne Rivers, and is known for producing Entre-deux-Mers (AOC) classified dry white wines from a blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon and Muscadelle grapes. These wines are best when enjoyed young, pairing beautifully with fresh seafood from the nearby Atlantic Coast. The area also produces red wines in the Bordeaux generic appellation, as well as the appellation of Bordeaux Superieur Rouge.
How to Serve Bordeaux wines
The first step to fully enjoying a bottle of wine from this region is to choose the correct time to open it. Many of Bordeaux’s best are aged for a minimum of 18 months in new French oak barrels, which allows the wine’s tannins to soften and its flavors to evolve a range of nuances. Nevertheless, the high levels of acidity and tannins characterizing these red wines means that they are often quite harsh in their youth, revealing their full potential only after a few years to a few decades of aging in the bottle. The red wines of Bordeaux also tend to show significant variation from one vintage to another (“the vintage effect”), so be sure to choose a vintage whose unique character matches your preferences. Bordeaux vintages also make for fantastic gift ideas for birthdays, anniversaries, weddings and more, as they mark a special year, a moment in time. When searching for old vintage Bordeaux, consider large format bottles (e.g. the 1.5 liter Magnum, or 5 liter Jeroboam), which tend to age even better than wines in standard bottles.
When investing in a Grand Cru Classé of Bordeaux, especially in an older vintage, it is important to make sure to buy the wine from a trusted source, with provenance and adequate storage guaranteed. The bottle should ideally be stored in a cool, dark place until it is opened. While the dry white wines of Bordeaux pair famously well with fresh seafood, the region’s iconic Bordeaux Blends offer the perfect centerpiece for just about any food featuring meat cooked in a variety of forms: from the most indulgent roasted leg of lamb or fine filet of steak to the more humble bacon cheeseburger. The sweet wines of Sauternes and Barsac pair beautifully with most strong cheeses, as well as most desserts, to which they are known to add their own signature caramelized, honeyed touches.
How to choose a Bordeaux wine? Find out more on our blog!
Indeed, the Bordeaux wine region comprises a plethora of appellations and estates, which can sometimes seem quite overwhelming when you are looking to find out more about Bordeaux wines and which ones to purchase. On our blog, you can find a guide on How to choose the best Bordeaux wine. In this guide, we will run you through the various appellations, their characteristics, the classification levels and provide some food and wine pairing options. Find out more on our blog!
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