Henri Giraud : Esprit Nature Brut

This balanced Champagne has a fine mousse, with a well-knit spine of citrus-laced acidity defining rich notes of plumped cherry, rosehip, biscuit and candied ginger. Drink now through 2024. 10,000 cases made, 600 cases imported.

The creamy texture is so enticing on the palate, because it intentionally has slightly fewer bubbles, with light strawberry and brioche and a hint of tangerine. Medium body with a pretty core of fruit and a fine, velvety finish. Base wine all fermented in barrel. 30% reserve wine and the base is 2020. 80% pinot noir and 20% chardonnay. Drink now.

The NV Esprit Nature (2022 base) is a fabulous introduction to the range. Citrus peel, chalk, mint and white pepper give this Esprit gorgeous freshness to play off its mid-weight personality. There's lovely transparency and nuance. Bottling with slightly lower pressure yields a Champagne of excellent textural finesse. Disgorged: May 2025.

Medium, bright lemon-yellow in colour. Fruity aromas of citrus zest, red peach, heart cherries and a hint of vanilla, with some white pepper too on the nose. Full of character on the palate, it's full-bodied with subtle phenolic grip and a creamy, mineral texture that’s balanced by the acidity. Ripe red fruit on the dry finish.

The Esprit Nature cuvée, dominated by Pinot Noir (80%) and aged in barrel, is finely toasted, vinous, with a delicate patina, notes of gingerbread and pastry, and a lovely length. A wine that is fairly broad on the attack, mouth-coating, and which refocuses nicely on the finish. You can sense the depth and delicacy of the fine terroir of Aÿ.

Giraud's easy-drinking NV Esprit Nature Brut is a blend of 80% Pinot Noir with 20% Chardonnay and 50% of reserve wines matured in small casks made of oak from the forest of Argonne and in ovoid vats. It displays a bright golden color and a terribly clear, fresh and pure bouquet of white fruits, sweet cherries and crushed stones. The wine is light, fresh and round on the palate, where it is indeed pretty charming and far from bone dry and reveals remarkable finesse and lightness. This is a beautiful aperitif and party wine that keeps the conversation going. I would drink it young and fresh, with all its current spirit. Disgorged August 2017; tasted April 2018. 100,000 bottles made.