Taittinger : Prelude Grands Crus

Vintage quality, with five years of ageing on lees. Clean and impeccably-shaped, the latest release of Prélude combines intense lemon oil and fleshy peach Chardonnay with sweet strawberry Pinot, crystal-clear and long, rounded out by creamy-textured almond richness and showing promise for further ageing. A hidden gem in the Taittinger portfolio. 50% Pinot Noir and 50% Chardonnay grands crus.

(a 50/50 blend of Avize and Mesnil-sur-Oger Chardonnay and Pinot Noir from Mailly, Bouzy and Ambonnay; around 10 g/l dosage; L33830X01300): Pale gold. Vibrant, mineral-laced citrus and orchard fruit aromas are complemented by suggestions of buttered toast and honey. Toasty orange and pear flavors are braced by juicy acidity, picking up a suggestion of chamomile with air. Finishes dry and precise, with repeating mineral and toast notes.

Medium yellow-green with silver reflections and a fine, persistent mousse. Fine yellow apple fruit, a touch of honeydew melon, delicate orange zest and some fresh cookie. Juicy, notes of apple and ripe mango, discreet fruit sweetness, elegant and long-lasting, complex, mineral, ripe yellow fruit on the finish, a complex food companion with further certain ageing potential.

The NV Champagne Grands Crus Prelude Brut is also based on the 2018 vintage and moves into a bit more decadence with crème brûlée, white flowers, red berries, and crushed chalk. The palate has an opulent mousse, although it is clean on the long finish, with orange marmalade and lightly confected fruit. With its more luxurious feel and a refreshing spine of acidity, this wine offers a lot of pleasure. Drink 2022–2034.

An exclusive selection of Grands Crus, perfectly balanced between Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays, aged 5 years in bottle, with a coppery-gold hue and a very refined lift. The aromas are multifaceted and highly defined: iodized moisture, grey stone, pomelo, lemon peel, spices, and warm brioche. It is luminous. The palate is voluptuous, divinely fruity, with blond fruits, grape, mirabelle plum, and vanilla-poached pear. The structure is incisive and the finish gently saline. Wonderful lacework.

A more evolved color with a palate that shows reductive, toasted notes

Pretty big and tight at first, with burnt match, pepper and mustard aromas. Full and layered, with citrus, apple, grapefruit and spice flavors. Quite round and chewy, and a little off the beaten path. Seems to improve the more you get to know it.

The NV Brut Grand Cru Prelude is equal parts Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, all from Grand Cru vineyards. This shows a compelling balance between the weight of the Pinot and the freshness of the Chardonnay in a soft, creamy style that is appealing. This is Lot L9346TA01300, disgorged October, 2009 (not indicated on label). Anticipated maturity: 2010-2015. Taittinger is one of Champagne’s most consistent large brands. The flagship Comtes de Champagne and Comtes de Champagne Rose, two of the finest wines in the region, sometimes fly under the radar, but they are both super-pedigreed wines with brilliant track records for developing considerable complexity in bottle. Readers who want to learn more about the estate and Comtes in particular may want to take a look at my article on www.erobertparker.com published earlier in the year. Taittinger does so many things well, but it would be great to see the estate add disgorgement dates to its labels. Importer: Kobrand Corp., Purchase, NY; tel. (914) 253-7756