Joseph Drouhin : Puligny-Montrachet 1er cru "Folatières" 2010

One of the more unusual wines in the lineup, the 2010 Puligny-Montrachet Les Folatieres presents an intriguing, at times exotic, array of juicy yellow fruit, lychee and flowers. The Folatieres takes on tropical notes as the wine’s large-scaled, voluptuous personality begins to emerge. There is a slight hint of botrytis-like sweetness that adds considerable character and personality. This is a decidedly lush style that works beautifully. Anticipated maturity: 2012+. This is a striking set of wines from Drouhin. Veronique Drouhin describes 2010 as a year with cool temperatures in July and August, but much better weather in September. As is the case throughout the region, I found the Pulignys especially ripe and exotic. I also tasted a range of the 2011s. Drouhin told me she thought the wines would need a little extra time in barrel to give them more body and volume. Importer: Dreyfus Ashby & Co., New York, NY; tel. (212) 818-0770

This has rich, ripe fruit and signs of wood aging that are appropriate to a young wine, but they will certainly become integrated. What is so delicious about this selection is the fine balance between its generous fruit and its tight, minerally acidity. Keep this for at least six years.

Lovely golden colour and intoxicating palate of apricot, peach, vanilla, honey, burnt sugar – this is exemplary stuff. A great wine, without any signs of oxidation, and drinking beautifully. (RH)