Domaine Comte Georges de Vogue : Musigny Grand cru "Vieilles Vignes" 2020

The mature vines in the domaine’s immense holding (5.56ha of old vines) have given us a wine with the youthful, plummy exuberance of Chambolle but with added precision and depth, revealing saline mineral notes, plus hints of flowers and spice. On the palate, the silky texture initially beguiles, and with time the firm structure and long finish become evident. Ageing in 35% new casks helps the wine retain an admirable purity of fruit. The 2020 vintage was the last vinified by François Millet, who took his retirement at a high point in his career.

The 2020 Musigny Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru is a wine I was not sure about from barrel, but it certainly proves its mettle with a stellar showing here. This was Vincent Millet's final vintage. It is a lucid ruby/purple in color. This is opulent and ripe, possibly later-picked, a soupçon of exotic fruit - cassis and boysenberry jam, crushed violet and iodine. The palate is medium-bodied with iodine-tinged black fruit. This is a bold, assertive "statement wine" that lacquers the mouth, but it doesn't quite have the grace or intellect of its peers. Perhaps that will develop with bottle age? There's a lot packed into this wine, and I strongly suspect it will be applauded with time. Tasted blind at the Burgfest tasting.