Chateau Laroque 2023

For several years now, well on its way to establishing itself at the top of the appellation; stony-cool expression, intense fruit, floral notes, red berries, rhubarb; on the palate, crisp fruit, polished tannins, exceptionally delicate, great harmony; the wine has structure, shows drive, yet remains elegant; excellent length, finishes salty, the chalky terroir speaks volumes. A must-buy!

Really perfumed nose, highly scented with purple flowers and dark ripe fruit – blackcurrant, damson plum and black cherry. Deep aromatics with lots of tobacco and clove spice on the nose. It’s heady, strongly scented and alive. Cool and crisp on the palate, smooth, so silky, really effortless in the tannin presentation. Juicy and clean, so bright, but not sour or tart, just the right side, so it’s lifted but not overly austere. Once the acidity calms down in comes the salty, mineral base giving lots of liquorice, wet stone and graphite tones, putting you squarely on limestone. Fruit is ripe and there is the softest chew to the expression but it keeps a relatively sleek frame. A bit minty. I would have thought there was more Cabernet in the blend than there is. It’s not so layered, but it’s certainly finessed and graceful on the palate with lots of precision and movement from start to finish. One that makes you want another sip straight away. 3.42pH. A great wine from winemaker David Suire. A yield of 46hl/ha. Ageing 50% new oak.

Cask sample. Good colour. Dark-fruit aroma with a fresh, chalky edge. Smooth, well-worked tannins and persistence on the finish. Limestone terroir clearly marked. Perhaps a tad light in fruit weight. (JL)

Flowers, crushed rocks, chocolate, smoke, orange rind, and spice create the complex set of aromatics. The palate is equally complex with its layers of lush, polished, sweet, pure, red fruits with their edge of sea-salt. Concentrated, vibrant, and elegant, there is depth and a slightly racy character providing length and complexity on the mid-palate, and in the finish. The wine was made with 99% Merlot and 1% Cabernet Franc. Drink from 2028-2042.

Dark ruby, opaque core, purple reflections, brightening at the edge. Delicate fine oak, vanilla, a touch of liquorice, red cherries, inviting bouquet. Medium body, red-berry fruit, delicate tannins, fresh structure, mineral and salty finish, lemony aftertaste.

Medium-intensity ruby; a little reserved at first, in the best way, with hidden depths that are so promising during En Primeur. Real sense of sapidity, squid ink, violet reflections, extremely vibrant. I really like this: blueberry, sage, slate, lift on the finish, delicious. Beaumartin family, David Suire winemaker.

Score: 93–95. Generous and welcoming, the nose is bucolic with scents of wild flowers, delicate fruit and a hint of honey. All that’s missing is the buzzing of bees. The palate is caressing, broad and voluptuous. Small red fruits bring energy before a particularly mouthwatering, complex finish marked by stony notes.