Chateau Margaux 1995

Bottled very late (November, 1997), the 1995 has continued to flesh out, developing into one of the great classics made under the Mentzelopoulos regime. The color is opaque ruby/purple. The nose offers aromas of licorice and sweet, smoky new oak intermingled with jammy black fruits, licorice, and minerals. The wine is medium to full-bodied, with extraordinary richness, fabulous balance, and hefty tannin on the finish. In spite of its large scale and youthfulness, this wine is user-friendly and accessible. This is a thrilling Margaux that will always be softer and more evolved than its broader-shouldered sibling, the 1996. How fascinating it will be to follow the evolution of both of these vintages over the next half century. Anticipated maturity: 2005-2040.

A surprise. Initially deceived by its light colour, I was taken by the beguiling intensity of plummy fruit aromas with hints of smoke, earth and a first suggestion of truffle or forest floor. The texture is softening now – supple and silky, but still surprisingly dense. Shows restraint and elegance, but holds on regally at the finish which augurs well for extended ageing. This classic year should not be overlooked – it is now coming into its own and should continue to improve for decades.

Firm, masculine, hard style of Margaux with ample, ripe fruits and great aromatics, but the tannic spine will take at least another decade to soften—if it ever does. The finish shows a touch of greenness on the endnote. I own some, but I’m not sure this is going to change much; we’ll have to wait and see, which is a lot to ask considering it’s already 27 years old!

Concentrated aroma, very clear, with pure fruit. Opens beautifully in the glass with ripe cassis, blackberries, cedar and Havana tobacco. On the palate, a very classic style, showing lots of freshness and drive, ultra-fine tannins, and juicy fruit carried by a lovely acidity. Understated, great class.

Paul Pontallier: <div style="font-style:italic;color:#990033">I don’t know how to place Margaux within Bordeaux because I haven’t yet tasted enough 1995s. I rate this 1995 somewhere between the 1986 and the 1990 (almost 70 g of tannins). It’s very concentrated because we harvested only 46 hl/ha and downgraded half as Pavillon. A great Bordeaux, for me, always has the fascination of showing enormous tannin concentration without becoming hard. In 1995 we didn’t have a single poor cuvée. Everything could be used without worry. This also explains why our Pavillon Rouge turned out so brilliantly. The 1995 had all the hallmarks of a vintage of the century: the hottest summer since 1947, Merlot showing between 13.5 and 14% vol. alcohol. Then rain around September 20 blocked ripening. On the great terroirs you can expect great wines everywhere this year. But as soon as you get to cooler soils, there will be some disappointments.</div> Barrel sample (19/20): Concentrated mulberry bouquet, noble woods within, dark roasted note, very profound. On the palate extremely concentrated, dense, magnificent astringency, a gentle pastry note in the extract from the barrel toast, a hint of Damassine plum in the ripe fruit, great length. It has almost the structure of the ’86, but not that generous Cabernet note. 97: Deep purple. Ripe, very berry-scented bouquet with jammy contours, a certain Barbera-like sweetness, vanilla, seems very approachable at the moment. On the palate soft, round, almost ready to drink now, lots of ripeness in the tannins, cherries, mulberries, very red-berried, of enchanting charm and Burgundian stature (19/20). 00: Intoxicating rumtopf bouquet, wax notes, sandalwood, rock candy, slightly gluey at first, heady and thus very intense, with this base aromatic not very typical of Bordeaux. Strict palate, surprisingly red-berried, date tones and plums, rosehip touch in the extract, finely sandy texture, intense aftertaste of lingonberries and mulberries. Currently shows a certain California affinity (18/20). 04: Dark garnet-purple, saturated. Nutty bouquet laced with fine herbal notes, surprisingly open, plums, dried and cake fruits, subtly underpinned vanilla. Balanced, expansive astringency, ripe acidity that merges with a sweet, concentrated fruit extract, dark caramel, rock candy, all these delightful sweet-berry notes elegantly balanced with deep, bright terroir spice tones, focused finish, a few more years until first drinking window and then it will be tremendous. (19/20). 05: Dense, deep purple with still violet reflections. Dreamy, perfumed bouquet, exotic woods, lots of licorice, blackberry tones, quite ample, already seems integrated. On the palate highly refined, lingonberry notes, silky texture, beautiful balance, very multi-layered, extremely persistent with a full basket of berries in the long fruit-driven finish. Pure nobility – exactly how a great Château Margaux should be! Near the 20/20 mark, which it may reach one day. 07: The color surprisingly light at medium garnet. The bouquet remains reserved for a long time, even reductive at the beginning, then the nose really takes off, first impressions show a Tuscan Sangiovese affinity, then red cherries and raspberries, becoming ever sweeter and fuller, developing many facets with an intoxicating, playful perfume. On the palate dancing, superbly balanced, fresh, fine reserves, silky, structured tannins, extremely long finish, a Musigny-Margaux that is giving pleasure for the first time today (decant one hour) and this joy will last at least 20 years. (19/20). 15: Medium purple, still showing a ruby shimmer in the middle. It appears clearly denser and more concentrated than the Palmer, a full load of forest berries mixed with fine oaky coconut notes, playful and perfumed. It already has that special something on the nose. On the palate still young, still somewhat demanding, elegant astringency, there is still an incredible amount of primary fruit inside. It is only at the starting blocks of a long maturation. Particularly beautiful are the very fine, utterly silky tannins. (19/20). 15: Dense purple-ruby. Brilliant, powered fruit bouquet, a truly red-berried fruit cocktail, behind it light dried mushrooms, delicate tobacco traces and a hint of cedar, it only increases hesitantly, which further underlines its youthful impression. On the palate it then seems even younger. Compact, demanding and with promising, grippy astringency. I think it is currently in a difficult in-between phase. So I would definitely grant it more rest. Or then certainly decant well in advance. (19/20). 16: Medium wine-red, finely matured rim. Mineral nose, suede notes, earthy undertone, currently seems quite closed. On the palate dense, showing a great but not massive concentration, well-supporting acidity, displays much elegance and brilliant length. This will be a truly great wine. But one should let it rest in bottle for a good 10 years more. (19/20). 17: Quite dark purple, saturated core. Spicy, intense bouquet, shows very concentrated on the attack and opens only relatively slowly. Shows in a second approach a delicate profile with discreet volatile nuances that carry the aromas to the nose, now offering intense roast notes and gingerbread aroma. On the palate dense, still a bit unyielding from the tannins. The extract almost still seems compressed and indicates that its first maturity is still quite far away. The potential is magnificent. Wait or decant for a long time. (19/20).

Mineral, deep, velvety bouquet of mulberries, Damassine plums, slate, thyme, a hint of eucalyptus. Powerful, aromatic palate with good tannins, a finely muscular structure, dense, dark aromatics, and a long, dense, slightly austere, concentrated finish. 18/20 drink - 2035

Logo on the cork: inverted T (Trescases) Faulty bottle Here is one of the deepest colors of the tasting. However, a lactic nose and a dry finish on the palate lead me to think this is a faulty bottle.