Pavillon Rouge 1990

The grand vin made up just 40% of production. Mid ruby. Ripe and rich on the nose but not at all heavy. Lots of evolution and some warmth and sweetness. Edge of earthiness. Lots of pleasure. Still quite fresh. Excellent balance. Light dustiness. At its peak now? Clean, not heavy. Heady and charming. (JR)

Moderately saturated medium color. Floral, minty, new-oaky nose, with an exotic coconut note; showed some alcohol as it opened in the glass. Silky, supple, and moderately concentrated finishes with palate-caressing tannins and spicy oak. Nicely balanced for early drinking.

Arrival (17/20): Botrytised bouquet with ripe Merlot; it only really opens up after about fifteen minutes. On the palate, good extract, a play of red berries—especially cranberries—with pleasant tannins. I suspect it will still improve. 00: Open, ripe bouquet, mushroomy notes, withered leaf; behind that, a compote-like fruit that is already fading. Mid-palate, Burgundian traits, already slightly past its drinking peak (16/20). 01: Served at a Margaux evening between the 1986 and 1996 Pavillon Rouge. Here it was clearly the finest wine: light malty note, even a slight hint of honey, and red-currant lozenges on the nose. On the palate, juicy, feminine, with a Burgundian cranberry touch on the finish (16/20). 03: Open and now very plummy, with a honey-and-date note from overripe grapes. On the palate, a great pleasure; soft and graceful. 07: Open, fine and delicate, with a subtle sweetness and light caramel traces, red stewed plums. On the palate, lots of raisin tones from very ripe fruit, slightly incisive acidity, shows drive and is now in the final stage of its drinking maturity (16/20). 14: The bouquet is still quite attractive and has a sweetish perfume. On the palate, however, it has almost run out of steam.

The 1990 is a lovely wine, with a fragrant bouquet, soft, medium-bodied, smooth-as-silk flavors, fine concentration, enough acidity for focus, and a fine finish. Drink it over the next decade.