René Gabriel
01: Barrel sample (19/20): 64% of the harvest downgraded! Isn’t it the case that in a truly great vintage you downgrade very little? Only 36% of the total harvest at Lafite is used for the Grand Vin. In financial terms, expressed in numbers, that means millions for the estate. The final blend is 93.3% Cabernet Sauvignon and 6.7% Merlot. Never before has so much press wine been used (a total of 10%): delicate, almost perfumed Cabernet bouquet, blueberries, licorice, fine woods. On the palate, initially seeming slender, then the wine shows a lot of substance and a lovely sweetness. Here too (as with Carruades) a clearly defined, direct Cabernet profile, lilac tones and a bound caramel note in the long, lofty finish. A Lafite with velvet paws, its claws likely hidden within. 03: Tasted twice. Once at the Chile comparative tasting in Munich. The other at the Lafite tasting in Bad Aussee: fresh, still raw fruit bouquet, masses of herbal notes, licorice, a subtle oaky sweetness in the background, cedar spice, tobacco, walnut shells, dark fine woods, a nobility and grandeur that show already on the nose, even though the wine has no desire to communicate. On the palate, perfect astringency, an intense tannin-acid framework, extremely black-berried with dramatic concentration, a persistent finish whose aromatics conclude the preceding play of aromas. Could evolve into a wine of the century (19/20). One of the very best wines at the big Three-Terroirs blind tasting at the Ritz-Carlton in Berlin—and here it first showed that it is truly morphing into a wine of the century: dark, deep purple with a violet sheen. Full cassis and roasted notes on the bouquet, warmth, some plum tones and beautiful depth, already a powerhouse on the nose with dramatic potential. On the palate velvety, still plenty of astringency but with fine, ultra-ripe tannins, cassis and blackberries to spare and a hyper-concentrated extract, extremely persistent. Almost in a class of its own. 04: A child murder. It was served as the last red wine during a dinner on Uto Kulm. You can see its greatness, but the components are still looking to come together, gorgeous sweetness in the body, extremely long echo. Do not touch and truly wait for its drinking maturity. (20/20). 07: Coburg tasting. Extremely dark, dense and impenetrable. Sweet bouquet, rock candy notes, dark caramel, gently lactic, subtle buttery notes, attractive, fitting roasted tones, cassis, a hint of dried fruit. On the palate velvety, polished, sweet tannins, silky astringency, lots of warmth in the extract. The wine was decanted for 6 hours and that was the right call. It thus offered a glimpse of what it could be in a few years. The wine is significantly finer and more fitting for Lafite than the 1982 and 1986. Close to 20/20! 11: Not particularly dramatic color depth for this vintage. Superb, delicate bouquet, a touch of caramel, buttery notes, plenty of cedar and Dominican tobacco, multi-layered and perfumed. Even though the wine is currently revealing only a small part of itself, it fascinates—indeed intoxicates with its expansive nose. Highly refined palate with silky tannins, long and dancing. Thanks to the sensational 1982 Lafite tasted half an hour earlier, I have the feeling the successor has been found here. Overall, approachable now, but that is likely deceptive; to reach its first major maturity, this 2000 beauty still needs at least 10 years. 19/20. 12: Bright garnet, dark core. Little communication on the nose, delicate sweetness, light caramel, cassis, cedar nuances, light tobacco. Only on the palate does the true greatness emerge; the tannins are present yet fine; when slurped, the incomparable Lafite perfume appears. A delicate, finesse-rich Lafite that may one day—in a more concentrated guise—recall the 1953. (19/20). 15: Still showing violet reflections in the saturated purple. The bouquet appears fresh, clear, with a slightly waxy cassis note; all aromas are still in the primary phase and clearly defined, very delicate and multi-layered. On the palate, perfect astringency, generous extract, blackberries, cassis and fine woods. In direct comparison, this was the absolute greatest wine of the evening. I had previously scored it 20/20 and that was again indisputable. 17: Saturated purple, showing virtually no signs of evolution. On the bouquet, white pepper, leather notes, dramatically deep, indicating a dry, concentrated depth. You sense the greatness, but you also quickly notice that this wine has little desire to open up. On a second pass it shows tar and smoky contours, almost recalling a massive Hermitage. On the palate, an elixir of black aromas. It is introspective yet endowed with very finely grained tannins. On the verge of a potential legend. For now, the recommended motto: “Do not touch!”. (20/20). 22: Maturing wine-red, subtly lightening. It was definitely much paler than the 1996. The bouquet is astonishingly open and gives up almost everything it contains. Cedar scent, licorice, Dominican tobacco, wonderful herbal tones. On the palate you still sense inky traces, blackberries, minimal lactic nuances, giving it an almost Burgundian, dancing lightness. This, although ultimately there is much more in it than one initially thinks. An underrated Lafite, which can be drunk now but will also be found in thirty or forty years at this brilliant level of pleasure. (20/20).