Chateau Lafite-Rothschild 1998

A blend of 81% Cabernet Sauvignon and 19% Merlot, this wine represents only 34% of Lafite's total harvest. In a less than perfect Medoc vintage, it has been spectacular since birth, putting on more weight and flesh over the last year. This opaque purple-colored 1998 is close to perfection. The spectacular nose of lead pencil, smoky, mineral, and black currant fruit soars majestically from the glass. The wine is elegant yet profoundly rich, revealing the essence of Lafite's character. The tannin is sweet, and the wine is spectacularly layered yet never heavy. The finish is sweet, super-rich, yet impeccably balanced and long (50+ seconds). Anticipated maturity: 2007-2035.

Amazing aromas of crushed blackberries, toasted oak and currant, spices. Really a great nose. Full-bodied, with round and velvety tannins and a long, long finish. It lasts for minutes on the palate. Superb. Best wine of the Médoc, without a doubt. -- '88/'98 Bordeaux blind retrospective (2008). Best after 2011. 21,665 cases made.

The vintage began with a dry spring followed by a hot August, yielding grapes with thick skins and plenty of tannin and color. Rain arrived at harvest, but thanks to the earlier conditions, no damage was done. The final wine is 81% Cabernet Sauvignon and 19% Merlot; just over a third of the grapes made it into the grand vin. Results were inconsistent—one bottle showed a telltale whiff of Brettanomyces that tamped down the fruit, but a second bottle was much better, with clean, curranty fruit, rich texture, and silky tannins. When it’s good, it’s terrific.

The 1998 Lafite-Rothschild is served from double magnum directly from the château reserves, in fact with the man who made it sitting opposite me – Charles Chevalier. I must admit to being quite amazed how well this shows at 20 years of age, trouncing all the other First Growths except Haut-Brion. Lucid in color, it has a vivid bouquet of pure blackberry, blueberry, vanilla and graphite, perhaps just a little uncharacteristically showy in style, but beautifully defined and intense. The palate is perfectly balanced with layers of ripe black fruit, perfectly pitched acidity and a silky-smooth texture that makes this utterly seductive. It is almost too good for me to recommend cellaring longer. Whatever... it is a sublime Lafite-Rothschild that, on this showing, may well challenge the supremacy of the 1996. Tasted at the Académie du Vin dinner in Bordeaux.

With about 2 hours of decanting, the wine gains body and depth, but it remains reticent. Tobacco leaf, cigar box, cedar, herbs, green peppers, and red currants show, but there is a distinctive green note on the nose and palate that is becoming more apparent, along with some dryness on the finish. Lovers of old-school-styled Bordeaux will probably like this more than I did.

Dark ruby, deep core, purple reflections, delicate rim brightening. Nuances of Piedmont cherry on the nose, savoury hints of oak, pickled plum, a hint of caramel, candied orange, a very complex and inviting bouquet. The palate is dominated by its vivid, supporting tannin core.

Dark, fairly full. Spicy Cabernet, plum tones, plenty of cedar, noble and expansive, surprisingly approachable, the bouquet conveys Lafite’s unique sweetness. Delicate, elegant, filigreed and regal on the palate, silky yet meaty tannins, licorice, ribwort plantain lozenges, black peppercorns and plenty of cassis in the long finish. A truly great Lafite.

99: Barrel sample (18/20), 81% Cabernet Sauvignon, 19% Merlot: sweet noble‑wood bouquet, feels delicate and shows many blueberry‑like fruit facets, rock‑candy notes, Irish moss, as well as subtle smoky tones from the Merlot. On the palate, despite its elegant body that initially seems slender, there is plenty of substance and it radiates a terrific Pauillac aromatic profile; the structure compresses a bit, long finish. The tannins are not yet fully integrated and the barriques lend the aftertaste a gentle beechwood tone. Actually atypical for a Lafite, since the structure is not quite as silky as one might expect from a rather great vintage. 02: At the Rodenstock tasting, it struggled to keep up with significantly cheaper no‑names from Saint‑Émilion. At the moment, the bouquet shows a fine geraniol sheen, alongside caramel from the barrique. The tannins feel quite fine, which is why it is already a lot of fun in its fruit phase. But overall, it currently doesn’t quite show the quality it promised from barrel. Yet that’s something one is used to from a Lafite. 03: Very deep, dense garnet with a black sheen. Intense, ripe berry bouquet, malty sweetness, tea aromas, rock candy and black currant, expansive, if not almost rich. On the palate surprisingly soft, silky, lots of cassis and blackberries mingled with delicate chocolate notes, a well‑supporting, ripe tannin‑acidity frame. A popular wine that may soon be ready to charm (18/20). 04: Jean Guyon opened this Lafite against the Mouton 1998 at a dinner at Haut‑Condissas. I clearly preferred the Lafite. Because it was denser, younger and more complex. Could land at 19/20 in four years. 07: It seems that in the first phase after bottling, the wine had difficulty showing its true greatness. It does so all the more now. A brilliant, great and, in terms of finesse and sweetness, classic, great Lafite. It’s now easily at 19/20 and even has a chance to ascend to the Pauillac Olympus in 10 years. First maturity, but waiting is even more worthwhile. 08: Very dark garnet with black reflections. Warm, open bouquet, fresh, ripe plums, Amarena cherries, dark malt, cinnamon, Peru balsam and a Guinness touch. Silky with a velour‑like texture, soft and graceful, early maturity and, thanks to the great concentration and still supportive tannins, showing further reserves; ends with a good portion of Havana cigar tobacco. Simply brilliant, now and for the next 25 years! It can even reach 20/20. 11: Dark, quite full. Spicy Cabernet, plum tones, lots of cedar, noble and expansive, surprisingly accessible, the nose conveys the unique Lafite sweetness. Delicate, elegant, filigreed and regal on the palate, silky yet meaty tannins, licorice, Spitzwegerich lozenges, black peppercorns and plenty of cassis in the long finish. A truly great Lafite that competes strongly at the Médoc quality summit in this vintage. (19/20). 14: The Mouton beside it seemed much more mature. I kept drinking for two hours and more and more emerged. Great, but somehow slower Lafite. Perhaps because it was a magnum. Drunk with Silvio Denz and his guests at Faugères. (19/20). 14: Drunk with a sensational kid ragout at the Sempacherhof. The Lafite has delicate sweetness and at the same time incredible density. (19/20). 17: Saturated, dark purple, rim only slightly lightening. Deeply spicy bouquet, truffle, plums, licorice, tobacco, dark noble woods, subtle smoky nuances. An absolutely regal nose. On the palate dense, full‑bodied and meaty at the same time, balanced astringency with solid reserves indicated, the tannins are still very gently grainy and give this long‑lived Lafite a certain character. You can certainly uncork it now. But those who can wait will experience an unexpectedly great Pauillac in 10 to 20 years. (19/20). 17: Still quite a youthful color, deep in the middle with purple‑garnet. Wonderfully ripe, plummy bouquet, finely interwoven with herbs, licorice, shows depth. On the palate juicy, velvety and elegant, wonderfully balanced and long. This is pure harmony and – at a high level – a lot of fun. Pleasure without regret – except for the budget. (19/20). 22: Medium‑dark garnet, you can still find a minimal shimmer of purple at the core. Brilliant, great Pauillac bouquet. Powerful and broad‑ranging on attack while at the same time showing remarkable depth. Incredibly spicy and with a clear dark‑Cabernet signature; licorice, smoke, vanilla bean, coffee, dark noble woods, black olives, pumpernickel. With one foot, on the nose, it stands among the great Lafite vintages. On the palate full and meaty. For 1998, showing a rare, magnificent concentration. Still astringent. That does not mean the tannins are undeveloped. Incredibly long‑lasting finish. For me – among all the best wines with the same rating – this is the best of the vintage. Just like in the 1855 classification. So a primus inter pares! Four hours of decanting! (19/20).

Deep, dense, dark, complex, and fresh bouquet: cassis, currants, fine woods, mint, a delicate hint of eucalyptus, slate. Dense, multi-layered, aromatic palate with plenty of fine tannins, dark concentrated aromatics, elegant, tight structure, long, fresh finish. 19/20 drink - 2036

Logo on the cork: inverted T (Trescases) Dark, intense color with slight evolution. Moderately aromatic nose, delicate, with very ripe fruit. The palate is a touch firm from the outset. It develops very fruit-forward, but the tannin quickly becomes too tight. At the time, I think Lafite was using a concentrator. A bottle that regularly disappoints.