Palmer & Co : Brut Reserve

The latest rendition of Palmer's NV Brut Réserve is quite reserved out of the gates, unwinding with notes of crisp orchard fruit, citrus zest and fresh bread. Medium to full-bodied, taut and tangy, with bracing acids and a pinpoint mousse, it's not quite as generous as its immediate predecessors have been.

There's a chalky edge to the flavors of crunchy green pear, chopped almond, lemon pith and spring blossoms on display in this firm Champagne. Moderate finish. Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier. Drink now. 20,000 cases made, 2,000 cases imported.

A soft, finely integrated wine with ripe apple fruits and a crisp citrus texture. With its creamy mousse and lively final acidity this nonvintage cuvée is ready to drink. Palmer is the brand name for a grouping of seven growers.

Palmer was one of the few houses who prevailed with its NV based on the tricky 2017 vintage. The house's style of crisp, taut northern Montagne fruit opened up with time on lees very much on show, with apricot pastries and toasted almond flavours captured with a good dash of citric length from the Montagne Chardonnay. Approachable, yet there's nuance and interest here. 57% Chardonnay, 22% Pinot Noir and 21% Pinot Meunier, with 40% reserve wines.

A buttery, creamy and flavorful rendition based on the 2014 vintage, showing biscuit, lemon curd, raspberry and honeycomb aromas. Very soft bubbles. Around 50% chardonnay, 40% pinot noir and 10% meunier. 8g/L dosage. Drink now.

The NV La Réserve, based on the 2019 vintage with 41% reserve wines from 2015, 2016 and 2018, spent three years on lees and is a blend of 51% Chardonnay, 32% Pinot Noir and 17% Pinot Meunier. Chalk, ripe Mirabelle and lemon combine on the nose, accompanied by lovely reductive smoke. The slender palate fizzes with its fine, tender and wonderfully persistent mousse, sending its smokiness and verve to all the senses. A brut sans année that definitely overdelivers with verve. Well done. Dosage is 6.5 grams per liter. Disgorged: May 2023. (Lot L24092C) - Anne Krebiehl MW

Pale golden yellow with silver reflections and a delicately pearly mousse. Fresh white pome fruit aromas on the nose, with a hint of pear, mango, nuances of meadow herbs and lime zest. Juicy and elegant on the palate with a fine yellow apple sweetness at the core, backed by mineral notes and a good acidity en route to the salty finish. A balanced food companion. (base year 2019, L24051C, PM).

Quite a youthful appearance here, I would say sparkling wine with a medium deep straw colour, slight hint of green, indicating a certain youth. Quite fine, but vivid bubbles. Fine nose, I really like this one, I get some toasted notes, like roasted nuts. There is a slight hint of minerality, yellow fruity flavours, almost exotic, but not overripe in anyway, like fresh pineapple, mango, peach and ripe citrus. Good bite on the palate, I would talk about a lighter towards medium body style. Good flavour intensity here. I really like that yellow fruit, just about ripe, underlined by vital refreshing acidity there. The mousse is also well integrated adding a fine creaminess to the mid-palate. There is a certain complexity as well, I like those slightly toasted notes. I do not think that this has dealt with any oak, but it just has some ageing on the lees. Really refreshing and crisp finish, good persistence. I have no clue what this is, but I must say I really like it. Very vinous style, good character in more finely defined, precise, fresh style. Very good drinkability today, but doubtless good potential for aging.

Another outstanding effort from this estate is the NV Brut Reserve. Lightly hued with a crisp bouquet of crushed citrus, golden apples, and toasted brioche, it has medium-bodied richness, crisp acids, a great mousse, and shows a clean, precise vibe on the finish. It brings serious acidity yet still stays nicely balanced. It’s going to evolve for a solid decade.

An abundant, coarse effervescence and some development in the aromas