Paul Jaboulet-Aine : Domaine de Saint-Pierre 2010

This captures the slightly taut, sinewy feel of the appellation, with a chalky spine driving the core of currant paste, tapenade and tobacco leaf flavors. The chalky edge takes over on the finish. Solid. Best from 2014 through 2022. 50 cases imported.

Dark purple. Fresh dark berry and cherry-cola aromas and flavors are complicated by notes of Asian spices and licorice. Bright and racy on entry, then fleshier and richer in the mid-palate, with a smoky note emerging with aeration. Silky, harmonious tannins frame the long, sweet, incisive finish. Quite elegant, even polished, with plenty of surprisingly immediate appeal.

With a nose of spice, flowers, black pepper, stone and dark red berries, this firm, tannic, masculine, powerful wine will demand more than a decade in the cellar before it becomes fun to drink.

The oak influence has been trimmed back at Jaboulet in recent vintages, and this wine shows only traces of menthol and cedar. Cracked peppercorns and red cherries form the core aromas and flavors of this medium-bodied but long and mouthwatering wine. Approachable now, but it should age well for at least 10 years.