Paul Jaboulet-Aine : Domaine de Roure 2010

The dense 2010 Crozes-Hermitage Domaine de Roure exhibits the granite terroir from which this cuvee is produced, displaying exceptional amounts of minerality/wet stones. Intense, full-bodied and formidably endowed, but not rustic, it offers hints of beef blood, scorched earth, black olives and roast beef. Full and backward as well as impressively pure and well-balanced, it should be forgotten for 7-8 years and drunk over the following 25-30 years. Readers should not forget the southern Rhone offerings from Paul Jaboulet-Aine that I reviewed in Issue #203 (October, 2012), especially such terrific values as the 2010 Cotes du Rhone-Villages Plan de Dieu Domaine Pere et Fille and the resurrected Chateauneuf du Papes, the 2010 Domaine de Terre Ferme. The Northern Rhone wines reviewed herein reflect the emphasis on building domaine names while not forsaking the negociant wines. The wines reviewed in this report are only the domaine wines where the Paul Jaboulet firm owns the vineyards and harvests the grapes. In Cornas, the Jaboulets own the highly regarded Domaine de St.-Pierre. A second wine, the Hermitage La Petite Chapelle, is now made in order to increase the quality of Jaboulet’s flagship offering, the Hermitage La Chapelle. As for the Hermitage La Chapelle, recent vintages (starting with 2009) have been the greatest wines made at this estate since one of the all-time classics, the 1990. There was no 2011 Crozes-Hermitage Domaine de Roure declared. The white wines from Paul Jaboulet-Aine have also jumped in quality. Keep in mind that the proprietors, the Frey family, not only own Chateau La Lagune in Bordeaux, but are also major stockholders in the impressive Champagne firm of Billecart-Salmon. The 2010 whites all performed well. They are slightly less evolved and precocious than the 2011s, and possess a slightly greater degree of the crushed rock minerality than one finds in the more fruit-driven 2011s. Importer: Frederick Wildman, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700

The core of crushed plum and cassis flavors is framed by notes of singed cedar and vanilla bean. Turns a touch rigid and austere on the finish. Drink now through 2015. 125 cases imported.

Inky ruby. An intense bouquet displays dark berry and cherry liqueur scents accented by smoky minerals, licorice and fresh flowers. Deep and sweet but sharply focused, offering pure red and dark berry flavors and a touch of spicecake. Picks up a floral pastille note and gains brightness with air. Finishes sweet and very long, with a lingering floral note and gentle tannic grip.