Joseph Drouhin : Chassagne-Montrachet 1er cru "Morgeot" Marquis de Laguiche 2010

The vineyards of the Marquis de Laguiche date back to before the French Revolution, and Drouhin is fully responsible for producing the wines since the 1940s. This ripe, opulent selection lives up to its illustrious pedigree. It is full bodied, and it offers vibrant acidity and minerality. It's a wine for aging over eight years and many more.

Pale gold. Not very expressive on the nose though there is a touch of botrytis – just a hint of sweaty socks. Then sweetness. Not very refined. The building blocks are there but there is no edifice yet. (JR)

The terrific 2010 Chassagne-Montrachet Morgeot Marquis de Laguiche is beautifully balanced from start to finish. It comes across as more reserved than the Folatières, with enough acidity and overall structure to frame the fruit. As always, this is a big, broad-shouldered white that needs time in bottle to settle down. Veins of brisk, saline minerality frame the finish. This is all finesse and class. Incidentally, a recent bottle of the 2002 was fabulous.

Vinous, with a lovely floral honey aroma on the nose, strongly marked by its terroir (Morgeot), which now appears on the label!