M. Chapoutier : L'Ermite 2016

The full-bodied 2016 Ermitage l'Ermite is the biggest, most tannic of Chapoutier's current releases. Don't be fooled by the upfront aromas of confiture de cassis; this rich, chewy wine needs 6–7 years of cellaring to near approachability. But what a maturity it should achieve, with hints of cedar framing ripe, mouthwatering fruit and savory overtones of black olive and licorice, all backed by a sensation of powdered granite on an almost endless finish.

Steeped and focused black cherry, black currant and plum fruit flavors are carried by a substantial but very refined structure, ending with waves of anise, smoldering tobacco and black tea. An iron accent at the end adds further definition and length. Seriously long. Best from 2021 through 2040. 20 cases imported.

Aged in 30% new oak for 20 months. A highly aromatic nose, showing blackberry, blackcurrant and mineral hot slate aromas. It's very full-bodied and very straight. The intense, dry, salty, mineral tannins are very much of the terroir. The wine has thrilling cool fruit and is exceptionally well balanced, it's so enlivening. Like scaling a jet-black granite cliff face, there is relief and texture to its cool, glistening surface - but it's as hard as nails. This will be exceptionally good when it's ready.

Barrel sample. He bought this vineyard from the Montgolfier family in 1992. Pre-phylloxera, marcottage system of planting. pH 3.8. Exotic, heady nose that’s not as fresh as the other two red Ermitages. Pretty brutal tannins. Too much for me – at least this cask sample is. Not easy to see the fruit! Bitter finish. To be admired rather than enjoyed. (JR)

Dark purple. Aromas of smoke-tinged dark berries, licorice and pungent flowers are sharpened by smoky mineral and spice flourishes. Spicy and deeply concentrated, offering energetic blackberry, cherry liqueur and violet pastille flavors, along with salty olive, cured meat and cracked pepper nuances. Fleshes out with air while maintaining vivacity and finishes impressively long and sweet, displaying excellent clarity, powerful tannins and suave florality.

Readers wanting to understand pure granite soils need to taste the inky blue/black-colored 2016 Ermitage L’Ermite, as just sticking your nose in the glass is enough to instantly transport you to this magical hillside. Crème de cassis, smoked earth, gunpowder, liquid rocks, and graphite all emerge from this deep, hugely concentrated, massive wine that has awesome depth and richness, building tannins, and vibrant acidity as well as a monster finish. It needs a decade of cellaring and will keep for half a century. This is what you call liquid gold.

It needs some air. Austere, stretched by a tannic framework that constricts the wine, it’s a bit rigid: frost has left its mark.

Rich, concentrated blueberry and blackberry flavors are penetrating in this full-bodied, richly textured Syrah. It's a densely concentrated Hermitage framed by fine, gripping tannins and a firm mineral backbone. Best opened from 2023, it should improve well through 2036 and hold further.