Chateau Pontet-Canet 2014

Currently going through a sullen phase, yet after ample aeration it already reveals the great aromatic complexity of herbs, flowers and ripe berries, a hallmark of younger Pontet-Canet. The attack is direct and fresh, the development slender yet deep, and the whole feels very Burgundian thanks to its distinctive fruit, supporting structure and freshness. A great wine from an underrated vintage.

The 2014 Pontet-Canet, now in bottle, was tasted twice during my trip to Bordeaux. It has an attractive bouquet: graphite-tinged black fruit, incense and violets, perhaps a little more hedonistic than I envisaged when I tasted it from barrel. The palate is medium-bodied with tensile tannin thanks to the keen line of acidity. I like the precision of this Pontet-Canet. It feels linear and correct, pencil-lead notes developing toward the second half, more quintessentially Pauillac than previous vintages, with what you might describe as a classic Pauillac finish that retains the focus that I remarked upon from barrel. Tasted February 2017.

This delivers a notable menthol note, showing an ample core of well-steeped blackberry, plum and black currant fruit. A bright anise streak checks in on the back end, with a slightly loamy structure imparting a broad feel through the finish. Needs to pull together a bit more, but the fruit is there. Best from 2020 through 2030.

Similar to the 2011, the 2014 has added aromatic steeliness, especially compared with the 2012. However, the 2014 displays lovely fruit purity of cassis, red and black berry on the palate, and I like the tension, even if 2012 wins on sumptuousness. Aged 50% new oak, 35% amphora.

A stunning wine for this vintage, although it’s still a bit shy on the nose (showing more spice than fruit for now). There’s wet earth, too, but on the palate it’s bursting with ripe yet subtle flavors. Very long, complex finish that goes on and on.

2014 marks the first vintage the estate was Demeter certified. Everything here is classic in style, starting with the nose and all of its tobacco leaf, cigar box, herbs, smoke, currants, and peppery spices. There is freshness, as well as sweetness to the berries. The fruits are clean, earthy, bright, and chewy, leaving you with a healthy wave of currants, blackberries, salty rocks, and a touch of creaminess on the finish. The wine blends 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc and 1% Petit Verdot, 13.5% ABV. Drink from 2024–2045.

Dark ruby, purple reflections, delicate edge brightening. Spicy, a hint of autumn leaves, blackberry, dried rose hip, black cherry, cassis and suede with air, with subtle nougat in the background. Overall a somewhat shy bouquet that calls for decanting. Powerful, tightly meshed, mineral, fine nougat at the core, ripe, supporting tannins that are still somewhat demanding, mineral-salty finish, seems somewhat closed at the moment, but will show its full certain ageing potential after a certain resting phase. Patience is required here. (2025-2060).

A final blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot and 5% Petit Verdot, the 2014 Pontet-Canet is brilliant stuff. I was able to taste this wine from barrel as well as multiple times from bottle, both at the estate and from a bottle purchased in the United States. It offers a sensational bouquet of crème de cassis, black raspberries, tobacco leaf, and minerals, as well as an unmistakable Pauillac lead pencil character that I just adore. Possessing full-bodied richness, a rounded, surprisingly opulent, sexy texture, awesome purity, and sweet, succulent tannin, it’s a sensational 2014 that might just surpass what they accomplished in 2015. This is a 2014 you won’t regret buying in bulk as it’s going to keep for 2–3 decades and be drinkable for the vast majority of it. Bravo to Alfred Tesseron and his team!

Regarding this vintage, R. Gabriel wrote at the time: “Shows dark aromatics on a restrained nose, tar nuances, a mineral sheen, ripe plums, truffle, and a hint reminiscent of Ripasso... I must honestly admit that as a taster I reach my limits with this kind of organic wines...”. As for the bouquet, I can somewhat relate. Especially for a rather cool year, it comes across a bit warm, deeply spicy, floral, and ethereal. My associations lean more toward Napa. The organic attribute doesn’t stand out to me; it’s clearly its own style, but full of finesse.

GOOD TRADE: A GABRIEL-GOLD GLASS FOR A VERY GENEROUS SIP OF EXTREME After the barrel tasting, Alfred Tesseron invited us to dinner in his kitchen. In the decanters, freshly decanted: 1990, 1961 and 1945 Château Pontet-Canet. After the meal, this big-balloon bottle (1.75 liters) of Cognac Tesseron Extreme suddenly stood on the table. The base is a blend of very old cognacs, with the individual components at least 100 years old. This ultra-exclusive spirit is found mainly in England. Starting at around CHF 3000 for the giga-flacon. For us, the Extreme was free of charge. Earlier, I had placed my Gabriel-Gold glass in front of Alfred, and he was utterly fascinated, kept picking it up, and repeatedly compared his wines with the GGG (Gabriel-Gold-Glas) and with his—admittedly very modest—château glass. After we enjoyed the tiny pour of Extreme, I gifted him my brought-along Gold glass, since I only had a few more barrel samples to taste with the other. He thanked me with another, now considerably more generous, pour of Extreme. That was a brilliant trade. Certainly for me… 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc, 1% Petit Verdot. 30 hl/ha. Deep purple, dense at the core, garnet shimmer at the rim. Shows a dark aromatic profile on the restrained nose, tar nuances, a mineral glint, ripe plums, truffle, and a hint reminiscent of Ripasso. So not a “fruit bomb,” but clearly focused on its terroir. On the palate, meaty, slightly crumbly extract, again relying on distinctly profound aromatics. A very baroque Pontet-Canet with lots of substance and great potential. The fundamentals are brilliant. But it is introverted and (like other organic wines) not at all easy to taste. I would venture that its untamed power will ultimately be somewhat greater than its overall class. I must also honestly admit that with this type of organic wine I reach my limits as a taster and lack experience. So I was perhaps a bit at a loss with this wine. The same happened to me with the 2014 Palmer (also biodynamic).

(65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc, 1% Petit Verdot, 30 hl/ha) Dense, deep, velvety, finely opulent bouquet, black berries, prunes, blackcurrant, graphite, tobacco, leather, liquorice. Dense, powerful palate with pleasing opulence, vigorous, varied, sweet aromatics, plenty of fine tannins, very good minerality, velvety, sweet fruit, concentrated, well-muscled structure, very long, dense finish with good afterflavors. Can improve further. 18/20 2023 - 2040

A clear step upwards from both 2012 and 2013 in terms of Pauillac definition and punch, and it is following the usual trajectory of a wine from this corner of Bordeaux – meaning that it is still young at 7 years old and needs another few years in bottle. Packed full of bilberry and cassis fruits, a deliciously cool and savoury style of Cabernet with crushed mint and blue fruits, concentrated and finessed. Plenty of juice on the finish as well; I just love the progress of this wine across the palate as it travels slowly but surely towards its destination. First year certified as Demeter (Biodyvin as of 2010, so this is a second biodynamic certification). Harvest September 29 to October 10.

With its astonishingly pure fruit character and fine, silky texture, this wine confirms its status as an absolute success in the vintage. Harmonious, racy, and energetic.

A very elegant, suave, polished Pontet-Canet 2014 with present tannins; the whole is smooth, charming, and easy to drink, yet it has plenty in reserve. 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc, 1% Petit Verdot. Harvested from September 29 to October 10, as the Cabernet Sauvignon was ripe. Thanks to biodynamics, ripeness is more even and there is no longer a gap between picking the Cabernet Sauvignon and the Merlot. 30 hl/ha.

Beautiful symbiosis between the freshness of Cabernet Sauvignon, aromas of blackcurrant and nuances of cocoa beans. On the palate, the wine also shows freshness as well as body. The tannins are tight and the acidic structure gives pep to the whole palate. A wine that clearly signals it deserves to be cellared.

Double decanted. Dark, intense color with slight evolution. Highly aromatic nose, fruity, ripe and subtle, becoming creamier with swirling. Precise on the attack, flavorful mid-palate, subtle in its aromas, the wine unfolds fresh, delicate and ultimately impossible to spit out, with Médoc-style tannins that are well-integrated. Lovely aromatic length.

Fruit and tension define this vintage. On the nose first, revealing a complex, precise bouquet marked by red fruits (cherry, strawberry) and black fruits (blackcurrant, blackberry), complemented by notes of cherry stone and almond, then a more floral trail. The palate is full, with juicy, vibrant fruit and great freshness, enhanced by mineral notes and silky tannins. Superb length.

The 2014 Pontet-Canet is composed of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc, and 1% Petit Verdot. Deep garnet colored, it needs coaxing to reveal a profound core of baked plums, creme de cassis, and cigar box with wafts of tapenade, wood smoke, and mossy bark, plus a spicy hint of cumin seed. Medium to full-bodied, the palate has an impressive foundation of ripe, grainy tannins and lively acidity supporting the muscular black fruits, finishing on a lingering peppery note.

This is a finely structured wine with dark tannins and intense black fruits. The estate, with its biodynamically grown fruit, has given an impressively pure wine, packed with tight serious tannins and a fine structure of black-plum skins and intense acidity. It is direct, firm and with a huge potential over many years. Drink from 2027.