M. Chapoutier : Le Pavillon 2024

This shows a lovely classic Pavillon aromatic expression: spicy and exotic, with a touch of smoky bacon. A wine with incredible tannic finesse, so smooth and attractive, so seductive and elegant. With its great length, beautifully silky tannins, moderate alcohol and lively, bright acidity, everything is in perfect balance. Clearly a great vintage of Le Pavillon. Could be worthy of a 100-point score when bottled, all being well. Lowest production of Pavillon in 20 years, however, so grab it when you can.

Cask sample. Coarse-grained granite, black mica and quartz. The grapes are hand-harvested in late September. Vinification in small concrete vats with 15% whole bunch. Fermentation with indigenous yeasts and a moderate amount of SO2 is used. Maceration for 3 weeks. Aged in barrels, demi-muids and muids for 18 to 20 months. pH 3.8, TA 3.2 (sulphuric). Certified organic and biodynamic. Inky black core with a purple rim. Intense aroma of non-sweet black fruits and darkest chocolate. Almost but not quite charry. On the palate this is fabulous, a combination of very dark and very pure fruit, dry-dry tannins and a savoury flavour that is pure Hermitage, and yet there is also a light floral note of northern Rhône Syrah. Chewy, deep, savoury and intense yet fresh. Embryonically delicious, the oak already well in harmony at this early stage. (JH)