Chateau Haut-Bages Liberal 2023

A textbook Pauillac nose, a hint of leather, plenty of cassis, peppery; on the palate, silky on the attack, then it tightens, polished tannins, lots of energy; very good length. A lot of Pauillac for the money.

The 2023 Haut-Bages Libéral is a potent, virile wine. In many vintages, Haut-Bages Libéral is a bit more pliant and inviting, but the 2023 is a wine that is going to need time to come around. Swaths of tannin wrap around a core of black fruit, leather, lavender, licorice, incense and gravel. The 2023 was aged for 16 months in 40% new barrels, 40% once-filled barrels and 20% in a mix of amphora and concrete ovals. I can't wait to see how this ages.

Dark ruby, opaque core, purple reflections, delicate edge brightening. Fine nuances of cassis, ripe red heart cherry, fine herbal savouriness, still somewhat reserved. Juicy red forest berries, compact, ripe tannins, good freshness, red-berry nuances on the finish, an energetic food companion.

Very much enjoying tasting this in bottle, retains its exceptional Pauillac character with crayon, graphite, cassis, bilberry, softened and lifted by redcurrant and raspberry. Some firm acidities, translating the high percentage of limestone in the soils here. Harvest September 12 to 30. 53hl/h yield, mirroring the high yield of Pauillac in this vintage. 3.48ph, 40% new oak, with the rest of one year old, plus concrete eggs and amphora. Claire Villars-Lurton owner.

Great aromatics, really quite scented on the nose. Highly fragrant with purple flowers, damsons and rich black and red fruit. Great acidity, more juicy and fun than some Pauillacs with lots of energy and brightness. Really feel the vivacity to this wine, straight and clean, precise, not so much weight, the straight Cabernets are doing all the talking with some wet stone minerality on the back. Friendly, lovely and precise. Approachable, this doesn’t have the seriousness of some but this is well made with lots of freshness, mint, cedar and tobacco and liquorice on the long finish. 3.45pH.

The tannins, pronounced yet velvety, contrast well with the ripe black fruits to produce a wine with sumptuous potential. Fine depth and a black pepper aroma finish and start a wine for aging. Drink from 2029. Organic and biodynamic.

From the outset, chalky nuances highlight the limestone rock present at Haut-Bages! The bouquet also reveals notes of black berries along with a touch of licorice. Dense and creamy, the wine is driven by a structuring acidity and perfectly integrated, silky tannins. They emerge later on, providing a solid backbone as they gradually release their power. A wine of character to enjoy both young and with some age.