Maison Trimbach : Riesling "Cuvee Frederic Emile" 2017

This shows the gentility of age, with spiced apple, pear jelly and quince flavors held aloft by lemony acidity and a solid foundation of chalky mineral. Lime zest, fennel seed and cool gravel line the compact, savory finish, which is slightly grippy in feel, giving impressive textural complexity. Drink now through 2032. 2,200 cases made, 400 cases imported.

Poured from a magnum, this age-worthy wine is snappy and precise in texture, offering abundant minerals, orange zest and white peach in the aroma and crisp, stony flavors on the palate. Focused, invigorating and still young, it will drink best from 2028.

Less sun-kissed than 2018, 2017 reveals notes of ripe vegetal tones and citrus zest. Juicy and vibrant, it is a great vintage for this cuvée, brimming with energy and winning over with its volume, while offering a crisp, strikingly incisive finish.