René Gabriel
118 hl of Cabernet Franc will very likely be declassified! <div style="font-style:italic;color:#990033">I’m not entirely sure yet</div>, said Jean-Guillaume Prâts. <div style="font-style:italic;color:#990033">The Cabernet Franc suffered greatly from the drought, and therefore I haven’t included it in the blend for now. It is currently resting separately in a series of barriques, but I will most likely fully declassify it! Thus, the blend at Cos would exceptionally be 70% Cabernet Sauvignon and 30% Merlot. But that’s not the only exception. Over the past twenty years, we have fermented in our stainless-steel tanks. This year I brought the old concrete tanks back to life with very satisfying results. Due to its powerful structure, the 2000 somewhat reminds me of the 1986 vintage, except that this year we had a much lower yield, only 48 hl/ha.</div> 01: Barrel sample (18/20): Deep violet with almost black highlights. Intense coffee and rosewood bouquet, cocoa notes, black olives, prunes and fine spicy tones, incredibly intense and as concentrated as it hasn’t been in a long time. On the palate, a mouthful of wine, lots of fat, flesh and finely textured contours, blueberry fruit play with plenty of blackberries and again plums; the fruit is perfectly ripe and the wine is clearly focused. It has the potential of the brilliant ’96 Cos and shows the curves of the opulent ’82, yet is a touch more refined. Still, it shows it is a St. Estèphe. At the moment the Merlot and Cabernet grapes still act a bit polarizing, but that will sort itself out with barrel aging. Tasted again at Cos in autumn 2001: While the wine showed a certain fascination at the en primeur tastings and barely reached 18/20, it presented itself very tired in autumn 2000. Is it lifeless, bland and without charisma in autumn? My God, I still remember well how I tasted the 1985, 1986, 1988 and 1989 from barrel. All very great to truly great wines. But this 2000, at the same stage today, has not even half of that fascination. So can it deliver in ten years what it doesn’t have today, can it? Cos is on the verge of losing all its jokers and, among the Super Seconds (does it still morally belong there?), drawing the short straw. If the 2000 continues to develop at this level, it will never again reach the 18/20 points of the en primeur tasting in its drinking window. But until then, let’s stay on the optimistic side: (18/20). 04: At the book premiere in Linz I got a small sip. Remarkable bouquet; already nutty with intense coffee-roast notes. On the palate velvety, soft and already very enjoyable now—except for its price, which it still won’t be worth in 10 years. (18/20). 06: Experienced three times within 2 months. Once in Hamburg, once in Vienna and once at the large Cos tasting in Appenzell. Medium garnet, delicate brick rim. Roasted bouquet, black bread, pumpernickel and many cedar nuances, light tobacco. On the palate still firm, grainy, gingerbread spices and cardamom in a dark-roasted, mocha-tasting finish. A great Bordeaux, but one that cannot quite keep up with the other 2000s of its class. (18/20). 14: Slightly dull purple with violet highlights. Warm bouquet, many dark roasted notes, smells of black bread crust, ripe plums, a hint of freshly roasted coffee, fine and elegant nose. Not a complicated nasal approach, so “easy to handle.” On the palate, substance, density, soft tannins, extract still slightly mealy. Otherwise, somehow all is peace and harmony. Already a lot of fun to drink. Not an absolutely great Cos, because a little too under-concentrated and thus not sufficiently complex. (18/20). 18: The color shows the first brick-red nuances. The nose is a spicy cedar package, underpinned by plum tones, coffee and licorice. On the second pass, the bouquet turns fully to spice and recalls black peppercorns just crushed. The palate is soft and charming. The remaining tannins fit harmoniously into the flow, making this Cos a ready-to-drink experience without any regret. One might complain that, as a Super Second, it doesn’t quite keep up with its league. Whining at a rather high level. (18/20). 20: Dense purple with a slightly lightening, ruby rim. Open bouquet, cedar scent like a Saint-Julien, licorice, black pepper powder, finely layered and perhaps a bit tentative on the attack for this vintage. On the palate juicy, elegant, well balanced and with a mild finish. A nice, good 2000, but unfortunately not big enough for its general reputation and the vintage’s potential. On the other hand, it is already so very “ready” today! (18/20). 21: Quite dark purple, no maturity tones. Intensely scented bouquet, chestnut purée, licorice, Szechuan pepper, cardamom, ribwort plantain, blackcurrant pastilles and cold smoke. Develops positively with air and gains a bit more depth. On the palate juicy with medium drive, showing fine gaps in the texture. Undoubtedly a very good 2000. In its own class, or compared to similarly situated crus, it unfortunately cannot quite keep up. In addition, it already seems fully at its peak, which is (still) not the case with other Super Seconds. 18/20 drink