Chateau Leoville Poyferre 2023

Still marked by the élevage, intense fruit, tobacco, pine; soft attack, with bite, breed and spice, as well as excellent acidity; very long; should gain further with maturation.

Bramble fruit tones on the nose with some floral elements of peony, violet and rose. Smells rich and ripe and quite opulent. Smooth and agile, a lovely energy straight away with bright, almost high-toned fruit, the acidity giving lift and a sense of freshness. Lean and straight but so juicy, so you get the relatively tight structure with mouthwatering acidity and a touch of sweetness adding bounce and pep to the expression. It’s still quite compact in terms of real expansion but there’s long length. Really suave, almost subtle and dialled back, which is great, and the juiciness is totally moreish. I love it. Easy, generous, appealing. 52.78 hl/ha. 10% press wine. 2% Petit Verdot completes the blend. 55% grand vin production.

Espresso, chocolate, truffle, black cherries with flowers, and cinnamon spice in the background open the perfume. On the palate, the wine is silky, lush, opulent, and sexy. This is a superb accomplishment for the vintage. There is freshness, with ample fruit, sweetness, length, energy, and roundness. Interestingly light on its feet, yet it is no featherweight wine. This will age and evolve quite well, but it is going to offer a lot of pleasure in its youth. The wine is a blend of 62% Cabernet Sauvignon, 32% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc, and 2% Petit Verdot. Drink from 2028-2055.

Inky deep ruby, opaque core, purple reflections, brightening at the rim. Delicate blackberry nuances, ripe cherries, a hint of cassis and fine oak. Taut, elegant dark-berry fruit, fine, integrated tannins, cool, long on the finish, showing length and good ageing potential; this year in a balanced, elegant style.

Brilliant Poyferré, deep ruby colour, setting the scene for ink, campfire, espresso, mint, cassis and damson. Concentrated but with a delicious balance, this feels effortless and is truly a wine for Bordeaux lovers to seek out. Harvest September 14 to October 5. 80% new oak, 52 hl/ha yields, the largest since 2004, with more first wine than usual because the old Cabernet Sauvignon plots delivered both quality and quantity (after three low-yielding years). Alix Combes is the new vineyard manager, replacing long-time manager Bruno Clenet.

The nose is beautifully crafted, fruity, elegant, precise and juicy, offering tension, notes of juicy/pulp y blackberry, cornflower and, more subtly, pulpy bigarreau cherry, with touches of violet and bright small fruits, as well as hints of small blue plum and fresh blond tobacco. The palate is beautifully handled, fruity and indulgent, with a lovely pulpiness, purity and brightness of fruit, and a graphite edge. It reveals notes of pulpy/bright blackberry, pulpy/bright strawberry and, more subtly, ploughed/juicy cherry, with almost roasted-juicy touches, as well as fine hints of graphite, iodine/racy minerality, infusion, cardamom, cornflower and star anise. Lovely savory, sapid, finely chalky tannins. Good length.

This is well-packed, offering blackberry and boysenberry compote backed by bramble, cast iron, licorice root and warm earth notes. Tobacco and apple wood frame the finish, with a violet echo at the end. Should unfurl nicely in the cellar. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Best from 2028 through 2042. 22,000 cases made.