Boutari : Santorini 2016
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Boutari : Santorini 2016

Cyclades - Santorini - White Boutari Boutari 2016 J2470/16
  • Parker : 92

A Crystal-Clear Assyrtiko White Wine from Santorini

The Boutari property includes a collection of seven wineries, 6 of which are located in Greece and 1 in France. The Boutari Winery on the island of Santorini, easily identifiable for its classic white dome, has been one of the leading properties in the island's viticultural development. The 6-hectare vineyard, in the appellation of PDO Santorini, is home to vines that were never affected by phylloxera, a rarity indeed on the European continent. Located on the warmer southern side of the island, the estate is quite sparsely planted, with only around 2,500 vines per hectare, at an altitude between 105 and 140 meters above sea level. In order to protect them against strong island winds, the vines are pruned low in a basket shape, with the grapes growing in the center. The vines grow in sandy volcanic soils, covered with scoria, lava and pumice stones. The Santorini 2016 from Boutari is a single-varietal white wines made from the native Assyrtiko grape, manually harvested and selected for optimum quality. The fruit is cold-soaked before vinification with racking at low temperatures for increased clarity. The wine is matured in stainless steel tanks with a frequent stirring of the lees.

In the glass, the Santorini 2016 by Boutari presents a crystal clear body with a pale yellow color and green reflections. On the nose, aromas of lemontree flowers, hyacinth, fennel and jasmine unfold. On the palate, this wine is very well structured, vibrant and fresh, with notes of citrus fruits coming forth. The high acidity and long aftertaste of this wine result in a splendid finish, guarantee to satisfy lovers of bright white wines.

Wine Advocate-Parker :
The 2016 Santorini is unoaked and comes in at 13.1% alcoholùand a rather high (certainly higher than in the past) price point. That may be related to this news delivered: The 2016 Santorini Boutari was supervised personally by Vasilis Georgiou throughout the winemaking process (from harvest to bottling) and consequently there were some changes in comparison to the winemaking from previous vintages. Specifically more reductive handling of grapes throughout the process to avoid oxidation problems, lower temperatures during fermentation and prolonged maturing on fine lees (five months) under low temperature (10-12 degrees Celsius). This method was also performed to keep the wine fresh until bottling and retain some of the CO2 from the end of fermentation to protect its character from oxidation. I wouldn't have bothered to relate all of that unless something seemed impressive on tasting this, for whatever reason. This seems to be the most gripping and most concentrated one in a while. It is hard to remember one that showed more pure power and a better finish. It is tightly wound and very focused. To be sure, some on the island still have more concentration, but this looks elegant rather than thin, while retaining all of its power. It is a nice step forward. It will, of course, have to age well to justify the score, but I'm leaning up on this at the moment. It should hold well at least five to seven years. Then, we'll see where we are.
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