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Goisot : Saint-Bris Village "Exogyra Virgula" 2017
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Review by Robert Parker
Description
A Fruity and Mineral Sauvignon Blanc from Saint-Bris
Domaine Goisot is situated in the Saint-Bris appellation, which was part of the Chablis AOC of Burgundy before phylloxera. The wines of this unique appellation are officially entitled to the status of Bourgogne, but unlike other producers in Burgundy they do not just grow Chardonnay and Aligote, but also Sauvignon Blanc. Jean-Hugues Goisot was one of the pioneers of biodynamic viticulture in Burgundy, a commiment he has passed on to his son Guilhelm, who runs the estate today. The Saint-Bris Village Exogyra Virgula 2017 from Domaine Goisot is a 100% Sauvignon Blanc wine from a 4.38-hectare vineyard, characterized by Jurassic soils of Kimmeridgian clay and the fossilized oyster shell Exogyra Virgula, after which the wine is named. Around half of the vines are 10-15 years old and the other half 15-40 years old, planted on a northern facing slope. The vineyard is managed biodynamically and the wines certified biodynamic. A manual harvest is followed by fermentation in stainless steel vats at low temperatures with only native yeasts. The wine is aged on its lees in stainless steel before bottling.The Saint-Bris Village Exogyra Virgula 2017 presents a beautiful golden color with green reflections in the glass. On the nose, this Saint-Bris Sauvignon Blanc is quite intense, with notes of ripe fruit, citrus (pink grapfruit) and mango, with floral touches of hawthorn. The finish is marked by a subtly iodized touch. Fruity notes also come through on the palate, harmonious with the nose, and balance beautifully with a fine minerality typical of this appellation. This wine is quite persistent, with a very light white pepper and cinnamon touch coming through at the end. To be enjoyed in its youth or kept for five years at least.